We welcome summer officially with wood-fired flavours in courtyards, both in the village and in the city. Here are some of our favourite taverns on the island for ofto kleftiko.
Porfyrios
For 40 years now, this taverna has been serving kleftiko in its simple courtyard in the centre of Peristerona, and it’s among the most celebrated on the island. Open every Tuesday and Thursday, it’s an unpretentious little tavern with a relaxed setting, but the quality comes from the care taken by its owner, Andreas Porfyriou, who cooks the meat and potatoes the traditional “syrto” way, serving them to guests on greaseproof paper alongside fresh vegetables. Booking is necessary.
Peristerona, Nicosia district, 99 625690, 22 823555.
Symposio
Housed in a restored mansion, Symposio is an award-winning traditional taverna serving seasonal meze made with ingredients straight from Mr Nikos’s own garden and farm. That’s exactly why it’s climbed so high on our list, as nothing here is left to chance. The bread is freshly baked, the eggs come straight from the farm, the olive oil is homemade, the ravioles are handmade and stuffed with wild local mushrooms, and the kleftiko is slow-cooked in the wood-fired oven.
61 Prodromou Street, Pelendri, Limassol district, 99 404348.
Koutsonikolias
Many say this is the best taverna for meat in the Larnaca district, with its flavoursome kleftiko and stews earning a reputation that reaches well beyond the area. Order the traditional Karpasia-style ofto ahead of your visit and enjoy it alongside the rest of the meat meze, including sheep’s head, chicken, pork and sausage with pastourma. Just as moreish are the freshly baked bread and the honey pies.
2 Agiou Vasileiou Street, Kalo Chorio, Larnaca district, 99651818.
Kostaris
Locals in the area know well that if you want good ofto kleftiko, you book a table at Kostaris, in Deryneia. It’s an unpretentious little tavern that specialises in this dish, with the oven fired up and prepared just so the meat comes out flavourful, warm and so tender it melts off the fork. And of course, the potatoes are cooked alongside the kleftiko too.
Arch. Makariou III, Deryneia, Famagusta district, 23 822046.
Mousikos
In the inner courtyard of a beautiful stone-built house, Mousikos will have you sitting beneath the vine trellises, next to the archways, tucking into homemade village-style halloumi grilled fresh to order. The kolokasi kappamas is excellent, as is the kleftiko, which is very much in season at this time of year. Alongside the generous meze, there’s also a mini meze option, with starters, steak, chicken and dessert.
6 Kyriakou Matsi Street, Sotira, Famagusta district, 23 828833.
Taverna Zorpas
Every Tuesday and Friday, we enjoy the delicious kleftiko at Taverna Zorpas, which has been serving traditional Cypriot cuisine in Agios Dometios since 1999. The heart and soul of this simple, no-frills spot are Nathos and Mrs Iliana, who put their energy into the grill and prepare fresh meze every day, including mushrooms, halloumi, sausage, juicy souvlaki, homemade sheftalia, steaks, kokkinisto, liver, beautiful lamb chops, and chicken marinated in yoghurt with oregano, alongside, of course, freshly fried chips.
142 Agiou Pavlou Street, Agios Dometios, Nicosia, 22 777715.
Sofia and Andreas Traditional House
In the village of Letympou in the Paphos district, Mrs Sofia and Mr Andreas set tables in their courtyard, beneath the vine trellis, giving us the finest example of Cypriot hospitality. Using only fresh ingredients and produce from neighbouring villages or their own vegetable garden, they bake fragrant bread daily, make their own cheeses, and prepare traditional local dishes in the wood-fired oven, such as baked macaroni with goat’s milk béchamel, and kleftiko, slow-cooked for at least 8 hours.
2 Markou Drakou Street, Letympou, Paphos district, 99 995961.
