Welcome summer the right way — with wood-fired meat in a village courtyard or a sun-drenched town taverna. Here are some of the most beloved spots on the island for ofto kleftiko.
Porfyrios
For 40 years, Andreas Porfyrios has been serving his kleftiko in a simple courtyard in the centre of Peristerona — and it is among the most celebrated on the island. He cooks the meat and potatoes the traditional way, slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven and served on greaseproof paper with fresh vegetables. Open Tuesdays and Thursdays only. Reservations essential.
Peristerona, Nicosia district. Tel: 99 625690 / 22 823555.
Symposio
Set in a restored manor house, this award-winning traditional taverna in Pelendri serves seasonal mezedes made with ingredients straight from owner Nikos’s orchard and farm. Nothing here is left to chance: the bread is freshly baked, the eggs come from the farm, the olive oil is homemade, the ravioli are handmade and stuffed with wild local mushrooms, and the kleftiko is slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven.
Prodromou 61, Pelendri, Limassol district. Tel: 99 404348.
Koutsonikolias
Said to be the best meat taverna in the Larnaca district, with a kleftiko and slow-cooked dishes that have earned a reputation well beyond the local area. Order the traditional Karpasian ofto ahead of your visit and enjoy it alongside other meat mezedes — head, chicken, pork and sausage with pastourma. The freshly baked bread and honey pies are equally hard to resist.
Agiou Vasiliou 2, Kalo Chorio, Larnaca district. Tel: 99 651818.
Kostaris
Locals in the area know that if they want good kleftiko, they book a table at Kostaris in Deryneia. A no-frills taverna that specialises in exactly this — the oven is fired up and prepared with care so the meat comes out flavourful, piping hot and so tender it melts on the fork. The potatoes, roasted alongside the meat, are just as good.
Archbishop Makarios III Avenue, Deryneia, Famagusta district. Tel: 23 822046.
Mousikos
Sit in the inner courtyard of a beautiful stone house in Sotira, under the vines and beside the arches, and start with the homemade village halloumi grilled fresh to order. The kolokasi kappamas is outstanding, and the kleftiko — very much in season right now — is not to be missed. Beyond the full meze, there is also a mini meze option with starters, chop, chicken and dessert.
Kyriakou Matsi 6, Sotira, Famagusta district. Tel: 23 828833.
Taverna Zorpas
On Tuesdays and Fridays, Taverna Zorpas in Agios Dometios serves the kleftiko it has been making since 1999. The heart of this unpretentious spot is Nathos and Iliana, who keep the grill going daily with a spread that includes mushrooms, halloumi, sausage, juicy souvlaki, homemade sheftalia, chops, krasato, liver, lamb cutlets, oregano chicken marinated in yoghurt and — of course — fresh-cut chips.
Agiou Pavlou 142, Agios Dometios, Nicosia. Tel: 22 777715.
Sofia and Andreas Traditional House
In the village of Letymbou in the Paphos district, Sofia and Andreas set tables in the courtyard under the vines and offer a masterclass in Cypriot hospitality. Using fresh ingredients and produce from surrounding villages and their own kitchen garden, they bake fragrant bread daily, make their own cheeses and prepare traditional dishes in a wood-fired oven — including pasta baked with goat’s milk béchamel and kleftiko that slow-cooks for at least eight hours.
Markou Drakou 2, Letymbou, Paphos district. Tel: 99 995961.
