The historic centre of Nicosia, the walled city, is the most compelling part of town. Both in the free area and in the occupied north. And its first misfortune is that it’s been carved up. Beyond that, it faces various other misfortunes, with the result that a genuine treasure remains largely dormant.
Over the past two or three years there was a buzz, and it looked like something was finally stirring. Young people were the first to discover this part of the city—they opened little bars, created hangouts, launched small shops and workshops. Alongside this came growing interest in actually living within the walls. Buildings that had stood abandoned for years came back to life and, crucially, were saved from imminent collapse.
And then came the grand scheme to transform the historic centre into a university quarter, creating student halls with the University of Cyprus’s School of Architecture as the engine of this development—to be housed in the Faneromeni school building. Yet that same School had been operating for years just a few metres down the road, at the far end of Ledra Street, and failed to help revitalise the city.
Now the whole thing’s gone pear-shaped. The Finance Ministry is counting up the money needed to convert the school into a university faculty and the sums don’t add up. The School of Architecture has settled in quite nicely where the old Pedagogical Academy used to be. And the owner—the Church—is ready to take the building back, having already pocketed a fair bit of cash from the agreement. Meanwhile, the enthusiasm has frozen solid. The mayor is calling on the president to intervene and approve the necessary funding. The rector is suggesting relocating a different school, one that won’t need the space the Architecture School would have required. And that might actually be the best-case scenario, since it won’t require adding a massive structure to the school’s courtyard, in such a historic spot.
A few months ago, without claiming to be prophets, we wrote about the danger of one-dimensional development. “Walled Nicosia has continued to decay, with occasional attempts at revival that failed to deliver because they weren’t based on a comprehensive plan—instead they tackled the city in fits and starts. The Laiki Geitonia at one point, then the workshops in Chrysaliniotissa, then the Famagusta Gate which was abandoned, then the Art Gallery that was supposed to operate in the old power station but never did… And now? Now it’s universities and student halls, pinning hopes yet again on bringing the city back to life. But in a one-dimensional direction.”
What’s needed is a comprehensive plan for the city.
